Jasper and Banff National Parks have always been at the top of our bucket list, especially since we enjoy the outdoors so much. We spent 7 full days in August exploring the two parks, and it was a truly wonderful trip! From magical mountain lakes and beautiful meadows, to glaciers and charming downtowns, Jasper and Banff are two truly incredible national parks that are unlike anything we’ve ever seen.
If you and at least one other person are planning to visit for 7 or more days, we recommend opting for the Canadian Discovery Pass (similar to the America the Beautiful Pass for US National Parks). National Parks in Canada charge a daily fee, so you could save money by buying this pass depending on what your exact plans are!
Table of Contents:
Day 0 – Arrive
We flew in very late after work, so we don’t really consider this a true day on vacation. Though we arrived late to Calgary, we wanted to make our way part of the way towards Banff as we would be driving all the way up to Jasper the next day. We drove an hour from the airport to Coast Canmore Hotel and Conference Center, a great hotel for our purpose.
Day 1 – Canmore and Icefields Parkway
In the morning we explored downtown Canmore, a cute town just 25 miles from Banff. We walked to Blondies Cafe where we had great smoothies and breakfast burritos, the perfect start to fuel us for the day. While we didn’t end up spending much time in Canmore, if you have an afternoon there is the Canmore Brewing Company right in town that offers tastings and tours!
After breakfast we set out for Jasper National Park via the Icefields Parkway, known internationally as one of the world’s most beautiful drives – and it was very easy to see why! The Icefields Parkway is about 143 miles long and takes about 3 hours to drive, though there is so much to see and so many beautiful stops along the way that you probably won’t do it that quickly!
About an hour and fifteen minutes from Canmore we stopped at Bow Lake. This was the first time we pulled over and the blue water and mountains were stunning! It was super easy to visit as well, as there is just a parking lot right in front, allowing very easy access.
We then got back in the car and drove just five more minutes to the turnoff for Peyto Lake, an absolutely must see lake even on a day trip from Banff itself!
The parking lot is likely to be crowded, and from the parking lot there is a 10 minute walk uphill (not strenuous) to the first overlook. This overlook itself is gorgeous, but we continued a little further to the second overlook which is significantly less crowded and offers even more stunning views. We loved Peyto Lake and it’s easy to see why from these pictures!
We then continued on the drive for another hour and stopped at the Columbia Discovery Center next to the Athabasca Glacier for some coffee – they have a Starbucks inside, though it is likely to be very crowded. We didn’t spend much time here as we planned to stop for longer on our way back to Banff in a few days.
On the drive we saw a mama grizzly bear and her two cubs walking along the side of the road. Bear mace is an absolute must when doing some of the hikes we did, so we bought bear mace in Banff before we set off on the Icefields Parkway. We recommend buying it when you arrive as well (you can’t fly with it! Even in your checked bag), just for the peace of mind.
The final leg of the drive took about 1.5 hours to reach Pyramid Lake Lodge, our beautiful and serene hotel for our time in Jasper. Its only a 10 minute drive to downtown and staying right on the lake with the mountain in the back was an incredible experience. The hotel also has Adirondack chairs and fire pits you can sit around for the evenings!
We drove a few minutes from our hotel to the start of the Pyramid Lake Island Trail – a very simple and easy walk across a bridge to the Pyramid Lake Island. We really enjoyed the views we had on the island but we did not stay very long as it was very buggy!
For dinner we made our way to Jasper itself, parked (had to pay a small hourly fee) and ended up at Jasper Brewing Company. They had excellent beer flights and cocktails! The food was very yummy as well, with a selection of items that was about what you’d expect at a pub type of restaurant in the US.
Day 2 – Mount Edith Cavell and Maligne Canyon
We started the next morning with breakfast in Jasper at Wafflato – it was absolutely delicious! They specialized in waffle based creations that could be anything from a waffle sandwich on the savory side to a waffle with strawberries, chocolate, and whipped cream on the sweet side. If you have breakfast in Jasper this should be the first thing you try!
We then drove into Jasper National Park to the Mount Edith Cavell trailhead. We were able to park directly at the trailhead and begin the ~5.5 mile roundtrip hike. We started on the path of the glacier hike which takes you down to the edge of Cavell Pond. From there you can see both Angel Glacier and Cavell Glacier.
We then doubled back part of the way on the path of the glaciers and picked up the Cavell Meadows trail, easily identifiable as it the unpaved path. This part of the hike was more difficult and very steep in parts, but it offered beautiful views of Angel Glacier and the meadows.
Once we finished our “big” hike for the day, we drove further down the road to Maligne Canyon. Maligne Canyon is considered one of the most beautiful canyon hikes in the Rockies, and the trail has 6 different bridges throughout the canyon. The entire hike is 2.3 miles one way from the 1st to the 6th bridge, so the entire trail is 4.6 miles roundtrip.
Rather than doing a second longish hike, we instead drove down to the 5th and 6th bridges so we could see those ones more easily. It’s a really easy way to experience this beautiful canyon, though people did recommend the hike as well so if you have time and energy we think it’s worth doing!
After seeing Maligne Canyon we stopped by our hotel then headed to downtown Jasper for an early dinner (we were quite hungry!) at Jasper Pizza Place. Each day we were in Jasper this restaurant was very busy, so we would recommend getting there early if you can. We were able to grab a seat on their rooftop patio which had stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
Their food was excellent too! We got the chipotle mango chicken wings which were very flavorful and crunchy, the Annette pizza, chicken club pizza, meat lovers pizza, and the Philly smash burger. Everything was amazing. If you only try one place for dinner in Jasper, this should be it!
After dinner we walked through Jasper and stopped in different shops to get some souvenirs. Jasper is a lovely town that we really enjoyed walking around.
To end the evening we stopped by Grandma’s Place Ice Cream for a nice refreshing snack. They have a ton of great flavors, and Emily specifically enjoyed the S’mores that she got in a waffle cone!
Day 3 – Bald Hills Hike and Downtown Jasper
The next morning we ate breakfast at Bear Paw Bakery. This was also very highly recommended, and for good reason! We had some very good breakfast burritos, a cinnamon roll, and coffee to charge up for a relatively long hike.
Our big hike this day was the Bald Hills hike, an 8.7 mile (according to our tracked route) round trip hike that takes you up above Maligne Lake and offers stunning views. The beginning of the hike was a little buggy, so we recommend putting on some bug spray.
Overall we loved this hike! It was very windy at the top, but the views were definitely worth it.
After the hike we wanted to go to the Miette Hot Springs for some nice relaxation, but unfortunately the road to it was closed due to a mudslide just before we arrived. Miette is just about an hour from Jasper, making it easily doable.Â
We returned to Jasper and walked around downtown for the last time and ensured we got any last souvenirs we wanted.
For dinner we went to Earls Kitchen and Bar, which was very good! It also has an elevated patio with great views and large windows so even if you are inside you are sure to have a nice experience. The food was excellent as well. Emily got a salad, Matt got the ribs that were fantastic, and Eric got their ahi mango poke bowl that was the best poke bowl he has ever had. They have a large selection of beer, wine, and cocktails. You can walk in but we would make a reservation online as they save the tables with the best views for those with a reservation over walk-ins.
Later that evening we sat on the dock of Pyramid Lake outside our hotel and watched the sun set behind the mountains. We would have stayed there all night, as this view is almost unbeatable (and it was right outside our hotel!).
Day 4 – Icefields Parkway to Banff
This morning before heading down to Banff, we stopped by Wafflato once again because we just loved it so much!
After breakfast we set out on the Icefields Parkway once again to return to Banff. Before setting out, we made sure to get gas while still in Jasper. There is only 1 gas station the entire length of the Icefields Parkway and it is very expensive. So get gas in either Banff or Jasper!
On our return trip we made several stops to ensure we saw everything along the Icefields Parkway that we could. Our first stop was at Athabasca Falls, a magnificent waterfall that’s just a short walk from the parking lot. The ferocity of the water reminded us how powerful nature truly is.
Our next stop, just 5 minutes down the road from Athabasca Falls, was the “Goats and Glacier” viewpoint. On certain days, you can look out and see goats along the cliffs across the valley. The goats are drawn to the minerals along the cliffs! Sadly, we did not see any goats but the view itself was incredible nonetheless!
We then drove a bit further to the Columbia Discovery Center once again, and this time we walked the Athabasca Glacier Trail to check out the retreating Athabasca Glacier. The size of the glacier has shrunk in recent years, and at one point in the last Ice Age the glacier extended hundreds of miles! Even on a warm day, we recommend bringing a jacket as the glacial Katabatic winds (essentially strong winds over the glacier create cold temperatures up close) can make the day rather cold! You can also book a glacier walk, which is an incredible experience and something you should definitely do at some point in your life!
We then finished driving to Banff and checked into the Banff Inn. This was a nice hotel, not directly in downtown but an easy 10 minute or so walk away.
After checking in we walked to downtown and explored for the first time. Banff is significantly larger than Jasper, so it has a much different feel. It’s a little less quaint and much more crowded, but it is still a lovely town that we really enjoyed throughout our time there.
For dinner we went to the Canadian Brewhouse which had upper level seating that offered great views of downtown and the surrounding mountains. We also were there on Taco Tuesday so Emily had some really good tacos, while Matt had the French dip sandwich.
After dinner we walked along trail next to Bow River to Surprise Corner, from which we had a beautiful view of the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel that overlooks the river. The trail starts in downtown and is mostly a leisurely stroll. Even from the outside you can see the elegance of the hotel, and if money is no hinderance we are sure it would be incredible to stay there!
When we returned to downtown we stopped for a Beaver Tail, a classic dessert in Banff. They were definitely tasty, but a little too on the greasy side for us. They are very popular and should be tried during your trip at least once!
Day 5 – Lake Louise
The next morning we grabbed a really quick breakfast and headed to Lake Louise to be there before 10am. Lake Louise is about 45 minutes from the Banff Inn. When we arrived we learned that there is an extremely small parking lot at Lake Louise (which is full very early, most likely before sunrise) and there is a shuttle from the ski resort parking lot. Unfortunately, that shuttle is not free and the shuttle will definitely fill up in advance. See the official Parks Canada website for tickets and details on how to secure them. The road to Moraine Lake is now completely closed to private drivers and only licensed shuttles can go through, further necessitating a ticket.
On the day we arrived, since we were unaware of the new shuttle system, they had already ran out of tickets for the shuttle to Lake Louise. Luckily we found that there is a 2 mile relatively easy hike from a free parking lot behind the Shell gas station in Lake Louise Village that will take you directly to Lake Louise. The trail you will look for is the Lake Louise Creek Trail, and it is decently well marked the entire way.
While it was disappointing, we were thankful to still be able to see Lake Louise via this trail. The only bummer was that it turned our 8 mile day into a 12 mile day with the additional 2 miles there and back to our parking lot. So either be prepared ahead of time with shuttle reservations or be prepared to walk the extra 4 miles round trip to Lake Louise!
Now that that is out of the way, we finally started our hike to the Lake Agnes Teahouse and Big Beehive Trail. This trail is an out and back trail that is about 4 miles to the top of the Big Beehive. A lot of incline but the insane views are totally worth it and the path is still very doable as we saw many families hiking it.
This is one of the hikes we were the most excited for as there is a teahouse at the base of the stunning Lake Agnes from which you can order hand-made food and drinks. All of the food and drinks are hiked up by workers of the teahouse! It was a stunning view from the teahouse across Lake Agnes. You can order food and drinks to-go or sit on their patio at one of their tables which we would recommend! We got their Blueberry apple crumble, chocolate chip square, and cold lemonade which were all amazing! We wanted tea as that is what they are known for, and there were so many yummy flavors but they only served it hot and we were so hot from the hike and it being a very warm day that we decided to pass. Otherwise we would definitely recommend getting the tea.
We then headed on to the Big Beehive. This is only an additional mile up from Lake Agnes Teahouse. It has a lot of switchbacks and is somewhat steep but the view walking around Lake Agnes and then up over Lake Louise at the top is hands down worth it. It was magnificent!
By the end of the hike we had worked up a very large appetite and we had always wanted to try A&W, so that’s where we decided to go. We each had a burger and chicken chipotle wraps, sweet potato fries, and of course their iconic rootbeer. Everything was delicious and, for the budget conscious, very cheap as well!
After dinner we walked around downtown and stopped by the Banff Ave Brewing Company for beer and wine flights. Matt and Eric had the beer flight which allowed them to try 6 different beers of their choosing for just $19. Emily had the wine flight consisting of 3 wines from British Columbia for $20. We really enjoyed both the ambiance and the drinks and would recommend stopping by in one of your evenings!
Day 6 – Helen Lake/Dolomite hike
For breakfast we stopped by Tim Hortons and it was truly excellent! The breakfast wraps and sandwiches were delicious and even their donuts were very good, much better than we expected.
Then we drove to the start of the Lake Helen hike, which is right across the Icefields Parkway from Bow Lake. The hike was about 7.7 miles and had about 1500 feet of elevation gain. The entire hike was lovely, first starting in the forest before emerging onto beautiful meadows. This trail is not nearly as crowded as many others in Banff, but there were still enough people coming and going to put us at ease regarding bear. The first part of the trail is fairly steep, though because of the forest it is nice and shaded. Once you emerge from that section you are treated to a relatively flat section with majestic views of the surrounding mountains and meadows.
While we decided to stop at Helen Lake, the trail does continue up to Dolomite Pass for an even more incredible view. That section adds about a mile each way and some more elevation gain as well.
After our hike we went Park Distillery in Banff for dinner. This is a unique place in that they make all of their own gin, whiskey, and vodka in house which they then use in their cocktails for some truly delicious combinations. The food was also so good! We tried the spicy penne ala vodka, ribs, and rotisserie chicken sandwich, each of which we’d definitely have again!
Day 7 – Moraine Lake and Sentinel Pass Hike
Today we headed back to Lake Louise Village, this time to visit Moraine Lake. We booked our shuttle through Mountain Park Transportation, which was slightly more expensive than the sold out Parks Canada service shuttle but totally worth it so we could see Moraine Lake. We again parked at the Shell in the village and made our way to the pickup point at the Mountaineer Lodge.
We were dropped off right at Moraine Lake, which is even more incredible in person than we could have imagined. From there we started the hike to Sentinel Pass via Larch Valley, a 7 mile out and back trail. The trail begins with a fairly steep ascent through a forest (if you visit in the fall, the yellow trees here are indescribable) before flattening out and opening up. The last leg up to the Sentinel Pass requires negotiating several steep switchbacks, but the final view at the top is one of the most spectacular in all of Banff.
We then headed back to Banff and once again had dinner at A&W (it was too good to only have once!), before heading back to Banff Avenue Brewing Company. This time we were able to sit outside on their patio and watch sunset over the mountains behind Banff. A truly magical way to end our time in Banff!
The next morning we flew out from Calgary. Checking in our bag, security, and customs took a lot longer than we expected so make sure to allow plenty of time before your flight!
That’s our trip to Jasper and Banff! This was an incredible 7 days in one of the most magical places on Earth. We hope this will give you some ideas for your next trip!