Switzerland is a magical country, full of traditional charm with modern undercurrents. We spent 11 wonderful days in late August/early September making our way from Geneva to Zurich. The entire trip was incredible, and we hope this itinerary can help you plan your trip to Switzerland!
Things to know before going to Switzerland:
- Switzerland uses the Type J adapter, not the usual Type C for Europe
- The Swiss Franc (CHF) is the currency of the country. Generally the exchange rate is a little worse than the Euro (about 1.2USD to 1CHF as of 2024)
- Switzerland is very expensive, at least relative to other parts of Europe. We felt eating out was on par or more expensive than the US
- Many hotels don’t have air conditioning, especially in the more mountainous towns (i.e. not Geneva or Zurich)
- The train and bus system is state of the art. The trains are clean, on time, and very convenient. It is also one of the easier systems to get the hang of.
Before we get to the itinerary, here are 3 quick tips
- Order tap water at restaurants as it is usually free and safe to drink. It doesn’t taste funny. Paying for still or sparkling water gets really expensive.
- Get the Swiss Travel Pass for unlimited trains, boats, and gondolas along with 50% off most funiculars. Make sure to have your ID with you to use it in case they ask!
- Download the Swiss travel app (SBB Mobile)! It is so helpful for figuring out trains as there are a lot with stops that you have to change trains or sometimes even transfer to a bus
Table of Contents
Day 1: Arrive in Geneva
Our first day in Switzerland we arrived in Geneva in the early afternoon. From the airport we took a train to downtown Geneva to check into 9 Hotel Paquis. This hotel is just 5 minutes from the main train station in Geneva and just a 15 minute walk across the bridge to Old Town. The hotel is a bit tight but breakfast was included and was delicious!
After checking in we explored around Lake Geneva and Old Town. This area of Geneva is super cute, though a bit hilly as you start walking away from the lake. We stopped by Saint Pierre’s Church where you can go inside for free.
After exploring Old Town we had to buy a power adapter because we read that the C adapter works in Switzerland, though unfortunately that is not true 95% of the time. Switzerland requires a J adapter, so make sure you have one before going or stop by a computer/tech store in order to get one once you are there.
We got dinner at Restaurant Les Armures. We just stumbled upon it as we were walking around Old Town and the atmosphere and ambiance looked very nice. It turns out that it is the oldest cafe in Geneva and very popular. We got there just before 6pm and were able to get a table for 2 but shortly after a lot more people started arriving for dinner and many were turned away as you needed a reservation. We would recommend getting there early for dinner or having a reservation.
Emily ordered the white fish filet with vegetables and Matt got the sausage with a salad and hashbrowns. We paired this with local white and red wine (Switzerland has amazing wine! More on this to come). The service was amazing and this was an excellent introduction to Geneva.
After dinner we wandered around Old Town and Lake Geneva for a little while and then turned in early as we were tired from the travel and had to wake up early for our wine tour to Lavaux the next morning.
Here are some additional food ideas for Geneva as well (though we did not make it to any of them ourselves but they each had great reviews).
- Pretty Pattys Fancy Smash Burger
- Quesa Birrias at El Catrin – known for braised beef tacos
- Fiordilatte – Gelato Stuffed Brioches
Day 2 – Lavaux Wine Tour
We started the morning by getting breakfast at our hotel before heading towards the Geneva Arena for an 8:00am pickup for our Lavaux Wine Tour.
We were a little disappointed that this wine tour only takes you to wine shops, not actual wineries. We still really enjoyed the tour and day but would have really loved to go to a winery for a tasting that had the gorgeous view of the vineyards down the hill to the lake. The magic of Lavaux is the steep hillside vineyards and it was definitely a bummer to not experience any of them. If you want to see and go to wineries this is not the tour for you. Some wineries in Lavaux allow visits and tastings with reservation so you could try to go on your own.
Our tour started with an an hour and a half drive to the Olympic Museum in Lausanne for our first stop. This was a pretty cool museum. We just stopped here for 30 minutes so we did not have entry into the museum but looked around the outside of it and the view it had of the lake.
We then drove 15 minutes over to our first tasting in a wine shop and tried 3 wines – 1 white, 1 rose and 1 red. We really liked these wines and bought 2 of them to bring home. We were extremely surprised but impressed by Swiss wines as they are not something we’d ever had before visiting.
We then drove a bit further to the Chillon Castle where we were able to tour the grounds. It was so beautiful and charming. We really enjoyed seeing the different rooms in the castle, especially the underground prisons. Even if you don’t do this tour this castle is well worth the trip from Geneva.
At the next wine shop (more of a restaurant really) we got to taste 4 wines and order our own lunch in the town of Aigle. Unfortunately lunch is not included in the tour, but the food was very good. We ordered the chicken caesar salad and the mushroom tagliatelle to split and both were excellent.
We then made our way to the last wine shop in the town of Morges where we were able to try 6 wines. These wines were also very good and we bought 2 more to take home.
On our way to the car we stopped by a little kiosk in a park for gelato before making the 45 minute trip back to Geneva.
Upon arrival in Geneva we walked back over the bridge to Old Town Geneva for the evening and ate dinner at A La Pomme D’or. This restaurant is in a busy square in Old Town and was constantly packed. We had to wait a bit to find a table, but it was worth it. We ordered the salmon salad and a burger and both were very good.
Day 3 – Annecy, France
After breakfast at the hotel, we took the train to Annecy, France. The train ride was 1.5 hours, while a drive is just 45 minutes, so renting a car would be more convenient but not strictly necessary.
Annecy was one of the places Emily was most excited to see. Known as the “Venice of the Alps”, this city features picturesque canals that wind their way through the Old Town before emptying into the idyllic Lake Annecy. This day trip from Geneva is an absolute must on your Switzerland itinerary.
We arrived and spent time wandering the narrow streets of Old Town before making our way up and down the beautiful canals. As we arrived on a Saturday there were tons of markets that were especially fun to explore as well for all the local goods. We eventually found our way to one of the most famous sites in Annecy – Palais de L’lle. This is a Medieval island palace that is instantly recognizable and captivating.
We decided to stop at Chez Poustache for gelato and it was very good. It was hard to decide where to go for gelato as it seemed like there was a shop on every corner! Another very popular shop was Glacier Perriere though we didn’t get to try it.
We then made our way to Lake Annecy and saw Le Pont Des Amours, a standard iron bridge that is remarkable mostly for the stunning views of Lake Annecy that it offers. It was initially a bit hazy when we made it to the lakeshore before gradually clearing and revealing majestic mountains later in the day. As you make your way to the lake you’ll walk through Jardin de L’Europe (a beautiful park) with tons of benches to sit and enjoy the magnificence of the lake.
You can also rent either a paddle boat or a motor boat for fairly reasonable prices to go out and explore the lake. It was pretty hot the day we went and we regretted not bringing bathing suites or we would have rented a boat and enjoyed some time on the lake.
We stopped at Restaurant La Salle Des Gardes for a light lunch as we had a large hotel breakfast. We wanted a break from walking around and it was nice to relax and enjoy some wine. It is open non stop as well so you don’t have to worry about them closing mid day like many of the other restaurants in Annecy.
We loved this restaurant for the gorgeous view of the canal and a beautiful white church but it isn’t as loud and crowded as some of the other restaurants right along the main street. We got the burrata with tomatoes and pesto to snack on with bread that was delicious and a rose from Provence. We finished with a Bordeaux from Saint Emilion and their homemade chocolate mousse that was amazing. We highly recommend this restaurant.
After lunch we explored the 3 churches in Annecy (Cathédrale Saint Pierre and Eglise Notre Dame de Liesse were both beautiful) and then went to the grocery store Franprix to get some good French wine to take home at a much cheaper price (we just love French wine so much!).
We then decided to spend some time enjoying the view of Lake Annecy for a little longer before getting dinner at La Galejade. Matt got the entrecote with a mustard sauce that was amazing and Emily got pasta with olive oil, tomatoes and Parmesan. This restaurant was also an excellent location with beautiful views right along the canal that empties in to Lake Annecy.
Overall Annecy was a lovely day trip that should not be missed when spending time in Geneva. Annecy is a beautiful town that we will certainly be returning to at some point in the future. Check out our list of the best 8 things to do in Annecy for more ideas for your day trip!
Day 4 – Gruyeres and Interlaken
The next morning we checked out of our hotel in Geneva and made our way back to the airport to pick up a rental car for the day. Ordinarily we would have taken the train to Interlaken, but we wanted to stop and spend the day in and around the charming town of Gruyeres.
The drive from Geneva to Gruyeres is an hour and fifteen minutes and we arrived first at La Maison du Gruyeres, a local cheese factory that offers the chance to tour the grounds. Cheese is made every day between 9am and 12:30pm, and you can check what stage the cheese making process will be at on their website.
The visit took about 30 minutes and it was fascinating to learn about the different stages of cheese making and what makes Gruyere cheese so unique. 3 tastings of cheese was included as part of the visit: one aged for 6 months- mild, one aged for 9 minutes – medium ,and one aged for 12 months- strong/sharp.
After the cheese factory we made our way to the town of Gruyeres. The town is car free, but there is a parking lot just before reaching it that is only $1/hour. We parked and made our way up the hill to the adorable fairytale town of Gruyeres. The fountain in the middle with flowers is beautiful and the cobblestone street is lined the full length with cute shops and restaurants. We bought vacuum sealed Gruyere cheese and some wooden Swiss cows to take home.
As we made our way through town we walked through the row of buildings on the left and saw the old ramparts of the old town fortress. We explored them and the beautiful view they offered before continuing further towards the Gruyeres Castle.
On the far side of Gruyeres (roughly a 10 minute walk) stands Gruyeres Castle. We wanted to go inside so we paid the $13 a person and were treated to beautiful views of the surrounding fields and mountain along with the expected extravagance that a castle offers. However, the real show stopper of Gruyeres Castle is the garden which made the price of admission well worth it.
After exploring the Castle we made our way back into the heart of town for lunch at Le Saint Georges. We were able to sit on their balcony which offered a nice view of the picturesque town. We split a delicious mixed salad, 2 glasses of Chasseles, and Gruyere fondue (of course!) served with bread and potatoes for dipping. The food was incredible and the setting made it even better. We can’t recommend this restaurant enough!
After lunch we returned to our car and drove a bit down the road to Maison Cailler, a chocolate factory specializing in milk chocolate made from the milk of Gruyeres cows. The entrance cost $17 which covers a visit to the museum and a chocolate tasting.
The museum was really well done and the tour started with a history of chocolate, from the earliest days of cocoa bean harvesting right up to the present day. This history lesson was extremely interesting and fun to experience. The tour concludes with a tasting of 10 different chocolates the factory makes, each of which was delicious (as expected).
While we didn’t personally participate in one, Maison Cailler offers different chocolate making workshops that looked really fun! We bought a bunch of chocolate in their gift shop to bring home to our friends and family as well.
Gruyeres is also known as a great area to bike and hike, so when we return we will definitely be partaking in those activities. The entire area is just so peaceful and has so much typical Swiss charm that it is well worth the visit. Some other restaurants with very good reviews include La Chalet de Gruyeres, Restaurant des Remparts, and Auberge de la Halle.
We then made our way to Interlaken, which was about 1.5 hours. We were able to return the car right in town (thanks Hertz!) which made our transfer very easy. We checked into Hotel Weisses Kreuz, a very nice hotel with spacious rooms, comfortable beds, a delicious breakfast, and a perfect location just 6 minutes from the Interlaken West train station. The only downside to the hotel is no air conditioning, but at the time we went just 6 hotels in all of Interlaken had AC so that was to be expected.
For dinner we went to El Azteca, the only Mexican restaurant in Interlaken. We both ordered enchiladas and their house margarita was frozen and really good.
Day 5 – Zermatt and the Matterhorn
Starting today we knew we would be using public transportation often, so we bought the 8 day Swiss Travel Pass. The travel pass includes unlimited access to all trains, buses, and boats, along with either discounts or free access to several funiculars and gondolas as well. One important reminder – make sure to have your ID with you anytime you are on a train as they can ask to see your ID to make sure it matches the Swiss Travel Pass.
One of the things we most wanted to do when traveling to Switzerland was see the Matterhorn, which meant we’d be taking a day trip to Zermatt from Interlaken. The train from Interlaken is 2 hours and 15 minutes and contains 2 transfers, so travel time is long but it was definitely worth it!
Once we arrived in Zermatt we immediately made our way to the Sunnegga funicular station, which was about 10 minutes away from the train station. The day we arrived the sun was only forecast to be out in the morning, so we wanted to get up for a view of the Matterhorn as quickly as possible.
The funicular up to Sunnegga is underground, and from the Sunnegga stop we transferred to the Blauherd cable car which took us the rest of the way. We only bought a ticket up to Blauherd and down from Sunnegga as the 5 Lakes hike ended at Sunnegga.
We unfortunately had a pretty cloudy day so we could not see the Matterhorn in its full glory when we reached Blauherd, but it was still beautiful. The 5 Lakes hike is spectacular the entire way and on a clear day the views of the Matterhorn would be breathtaking. The first lake we arrived at is Stellisee and there is a mountain cabin/restaurant up above the lake where you can eat at and also stay at if you’re wanting to backpack. We met a couple who stayed there and they could not stop raving about it!
We continued on the hike to see the other 4 lakes and then stopped at Ze Seewjinu Mountain Lodge for an Aperol Spritz and one of the best apple strudel with vanilla cream we’ve ever had with a beautiful view. We highly recommend this stop along the way. They also have lots of food options if you want lunch. The hike took about 2.5 hours total and we ended back at the Sunnegga funicular.
After the hike, we headed back down the Sunnegga Funicular to explore the old town of Zermatt Hinterdorf. The town is so quaint and charming with so many cute gift shops and restaurants. We stopped for hazelnut gelato then walked to Mandu for a cappucino and some hummus with sourdough bread. Mandu is outdoors with a great view of the mountains and the tennis courts so we got a snack and a show!
We then continued to explore and made our way all the way to the far end of town for one final glimpse of the Matterhorn. We wrapped up our time in Zermatt by grabbing dinner before hopping back on the train for the 2 hour trip to Interlaken.
While we didn’t personally do these, here are some other popular things to do in Zermatt:
- Take the cogwheel train to Gornergrat (~30 minutes). Probably the most popular thing to do in Zermatt
- Take the cable car to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – the highest cable car station in Europe with snow 365 days a year. It takes 45 minutes to reach the top, but the views are stunning. We wanted to do this but it is only worth it if it’s clear as any clouds will completely obscure the view. Check out the webcams here!
- Riffelsee Lake – the second highest station in Europe called Rotenboden. It takes roughly 30 minutes to reach the station from Zermatt before a 10 minute hike to the reflection lake
- Hike to the base of the Matterhorn on the Horniluhutte trail – 5 mile out and back trail which ends at a hut. The trail starts at the Schwarzsee lift station
Day 6 – Grindewald
The next morning we spent the day exploring Grindelwald, a hub of adventure in the Swiss Alps. The train to Grindelwald is about 40 minutes, but make sure you get on the right one as the train to Lauterbrunnen leaves from the same platform at the same time!
Grindelwald First, the main mountain in the area, contains numerous activities including First Cliff Walk, mountain carting, the First flyer, the First Zip line, paragliding, and of course numerous hikes. Thanks to all there is to do it can become extremely crowded and wait times for some of these activities can stretch past 1.5 hours, so definitely arrive early and do the activities you want first thing!
When we arrived we immediately walked to the First gondola station (as did most others from the train) and purchased our gondola ticket and 1 activity. The gondola ticket includes unlimited rides meaning you can go up and down between the different gondola stations on the mountain as much as you’d like!
We took the gondola to the very top and went on the First Cliff Walk because of the lack of crowds first thing in the morning. This allows you to walk along the side of a cliff, providing stunning views of the valley and a truly unique experience. Later in the day this got very crowded, but that’s true for everything in Grindelwald!
We then took the gondola back down to Schreckfeld (one gondola stop further down the mountain) where we picked up our mountain carts to ride them down the mountain. The mountain carts are powered solely by gravity and all you can do is steer and brake! Parts can be steep and we were definitely able to pick up some serious speed. Matt was like a kid in a candy shop and loved every second of it.
They also have a zip line and a glider that you lay down as if you’re flying. We did not do these activities as they are very popular, the line gets so long so fast, and it is a very short distance you go so it just didn’t seem worth it to us. We knew people there who waited about 80 minutes for the glider. We waited about 40 minutes for the mountain carts so I recommend trying to get to them early so the line doesn’t get too long. When we were getting ready to leave the line had grown to 120 minutes!
The mountain carts dropped us at the Bort gondola station, so we got back on and took it to the top. We then walked along Bachalpsee trail to Bachalpsee Lake, a ~45 minute easy hike with mild incline changes. The trail offers beautiful views of the mountains the entire way before culminating at a magnificent mountain lake. When we arrived at the lake there were dozens of Swiss cows hanging out, many of them right along the trail!
We walked back from the lake to the First Cliff Walk area as there is a restaurant and gift shop with great views of the mountains. We wanted to relax with the scenery for a little while, so we ordered from the self service area of the restaurant and snagged a table along the edge of the patio. You can also sit inside the restaurant if you want a full service dining experience. From our table we were able to marvel at the paragliders floating just above us!
We wrapped up our time in Grindelwald by returning to the town and walking through the different shops before training back to Interlaken to explore a bit and get dinner.
We wanted to go to Little Thai as it was highly recommended and we love Thai food but unfortunately it was closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. Instead we went to Taverne in Hotel Interlaken, a very nice restaurant that was highly rated as well. We ordered the salmon, 1 portion of fondue, and chocolate fondue. It was a delicious meal and we’d highly recommend it for anyone looking for a nice dinner.
Day 7 – Lauterbrunnen, Gimmelwald, and Murren
We sadly did not have time to go out on a boat on Lake Brienz or Lake Thunn while in Interlaken. We heard great things about the boat tours on either lake and there are castles you can see along the lake so we would recommend spending a day on one of the lakes if you have time. We will definitely do that when we return to Switzerland one day.
Taking the Gondola up to Harder Kulm in Interlaken is also highly recommended and there are some great hikes you can do once up there so we will make time for that on our next trip as well.
Since we were leaving Interlaken and moving on to Lucerne after this day trip we checked out of our hotel and brought our bags on the train to Lauterbrunnen. We stored our luggage at the train station. Most train stations have smaller and large lockers for large checked bags and smaller carry ons. This process was actually really easy and super convenient. It was $7 per locker for 24 hours.
When we arrived in Lauterbrunnen we walked around the picturesque downtown and stopped in some souvenir shops. Emily got a cute crewneck here that she loves. We then found the iconic view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley with the mountains, Church of Lauterbrunnen, and Staubbach Falls all in frame. This scene was so beautiful. We then walked over to the base of the falls and down to the church to see inside. We thought about hiking up to the waterfall but decided not to as it is fairly steep with many switchbacks.
To find the Instagrammable viewpoint of Staubbachfalls, walk in that direction for roughly 500 feet from the train station. You’ll see two large stone spheres on your left and a little path just past them. Take that that path downhill and within 2 minutes you’ll come to the perfect spot!
If you are in Lauterbrunnen during lunch, here are some food ideas:
- Horner Pub – the only bar in Lauterbrunnen!
- Restaurant Weidstubli – perfectly located at the base of Staubbachfalls
- Wherever you eat, get the Apler Macaroni – similar to Swiss Kasespatzle
After exploring Lauterbrunnen, we took the bus from the train station to Stechelberg Cable Car sation to travel up the mountain to Gimmelwald and Murren. This cable car (and the gondola down) is included with the Swiss Travel Pass. You can also walk about 3 miles from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg by way of Trummelbach Falls if you prefer!
The first stop along the cable car is Gimmelwald, a very (emphasis on very) small town. We didn’t spend much time here as we were able to explore everything in 20 minutes or so. There is a bar with local beer overlooking the valley that is definitely worth a visit though!
We jumped back on the cable car and made our way to Murren, a car free town high in the mountains. We explored the town before arriving at Hotel Edelweiss Restaurant for lunch. We were able to sit right along the glass railing for an unobstructed and phenomenal view of the valley and mountains. The food was also very good! It was an incredible experience eating lunch and watching the paragliders.
Another restaurant that is worth a visit is Allmendhubel, though it will require an additional funicular ride to a plateau with more stunning views.
After exploring Murren we took the gondola back down to Lauterbrunnen to catch the train to Lucerne. We picked up our luggage and began the 2 hour train journey to Lucerne and were treated to beautiful views the entire way.
We arrived in Lucerne and checked into Hotel Central Luzern. This hotel was in the perfect location, just 5 minutes from both the train station and Chapel Bridge. The hotel keeps their breakfast lounge open all day with free coffee and tea available, and the only downside is no air conditioning.
We stopped for dinner at La Barca Vinecafe. It is right on the water with a beautiful view of the Chapel Bridge and the Jesuit Church. We both got their entrecote that came with vegetables and french fries along with an Aperol Spritz. Emily thought this was the best entrecote we had all trip other than in Annecy – it was delicious!
Day 8 – Lucerne
This ended up being a cloudy day in Lucerne with rain that started around 3:30pm so we took this as a day to sleep in and rest. We were so tired from being on the go for the last 6 days, it was nice to have a totally chill day.
We started with breakfast at the hotel and then walked around the city. We went inside the Jesuit Church which was absolutely gorgeous and cannot be missed.
For the first time on our European travels we tried McDonalds and were pleasantly surprised by how good it was. We had the Big Tasty and it was so much better than McDonalds in the US. If you are ever curious about trying McDonalds abroad, Switzerland is a great place to do it!
We then explored along the shore of Lake Lucerne for a while and stopped over to see the Lion Monument. It is a very beautiful and moving monument dedicated to the Swiss mercenaries who fought in foreign wars and never came home, so we definitely think it is worth walking over to.
Here are some things that are must dos in Lucerne:
- Walk across Chapel Bridge and Spreuer Bridge
- See the Jesuit Church
- See Hofkirche St. Leodegar church
- Visit Chateau Gutsch for a drink and gorgeous view
Here are a few food ideas as well:
- Max Chocolatier- make your own chocolate bar. You have to sign up for this class in advance
- Old Swiss House for table side wiener schnitzel. Their famous schnitzel is huge and $64, but they have a no sharing policy so we did not end up going there.
- Pfistern- fondue and spectacular view of the water and Chapel Bridge from their terrace.
We ending up getting dinner at an Italian restaurant named Da Ernesto on the waterfront. Emily got ravioli and Matt got prosciutto pizza that were each very good.
There is another nice Italian place that has a cute interior and a raised area outside on the waterfront called Le Terrazza Ristorante. We did not ended up going here but the ambiance looked amazing and it was always very crowded.
Day 9 – Stoos Ridge and Chateau Gutsch
This morning we caught the train from Lucerne to Schwyz (about 1 hour), then a bus for the remaining 15 minutes to Stoosbahn where we took the funicular up to Stoos. The Stoos Funicular is 50% off with the Swiss Travel Pass and runs twice an hour on the :10 and the :40.
From the town of Stoos we took the chair lift up to Klingenstock to start the Stoos Ridge Hike. This is a 3 mile one way hike that took about 2 hours at an unhurried pace. There is absolutely no tree cover and you are on top of a mountain so make sure you bring a hat and sunscreen!
The views the entire hike were amazing. This was definitely our favorite hike we did in Switzerland and it should be at the top of your list as well! There are a lot of steep ups and downs so it was a pretty difficult hike, but the reward is well worth it.
At the end of the 3 miles you’ll come to another chair lift station for the ride back down to Stoos. You could start the hike from this chair lift, however you would be facing away from the best views the entire time. Here there is a restaurant with spectacular views.
We decided to reward ourselves with some food and wine at the restaurant. The food options were really good. We got a big salad loaded with corn and beans for protein, schnitzel with fries, apple sauce, apple strudel with vanilla cream sauce, and a ⅔ bottle of Fendat to share at the top. It was delicious and an awesome experience.
There is also a petting zoo (for free!) with goats at the top and a playground for kids which was really cool.
We then took the chair lift down and walked back over a short distance to the funicular station before heading back to Lucerne for the evening.
We were originally going to get dinner on the terrace at Pfistern but we decided to take the little funicular up to Chateau Gutch to get a pre-dinner drink and loved it so much we ended up staying at the American Bar for dinner. The view over the town, Lake Lucerne, and the mountains was amazing and the cocktails and wine were so good! We highly recommend at least going up for a drink. There is a formal restaurant that typically requires reservations and is fairly pricey, or you can go to the bar which is open seating and has delicious food that is much cheaper.
Day 10 – Mount Pilatus and Zurich
We checked out of our hotel this morning as we were going on to Zurich in the afternoon, but the hotel has an area with lockers that people can all put their luggage into for free storage. If you’d like a bit more security you can also store your luggage at the Lucerne Train Station.
Today we went to Mount Pilatus for one of the best views in the Lucerne region. We took the boat from Lucerne (included in the Swiss Travel Pass) to Alpnachstad for the cogwheel. The boat ride takes just about 1 hour and is so peaceful the entire way.
The cogwheel railway up to Mount Pilatus is half priced with the Swiss Travel Pass and should definitely be booked in advance. The cogwheel leaves at specific times and the time most convenient to when the boat arrives will be booked more than a week in advance. However, you’ll want to be absolutely certain the weather is clear or you’ll only see clouds when you reach the top.
Once at the top do a short hike up some steps close to the cogwheel station for another great viewing point. This one will give the best views of the lakes down below. If you are very ambitious you can hike from Alpnachstad to the top, but it is a very strenuous hike (over 5000 feet of elevation gain) so should only be attempted if you are an avid hiker.
You can either get food at the terrace at Hotel Pilatus Kulm (which is very pricey) or they have a self service food place that we opted for that was great. We sat inside as it was a bit windy making it chilly at the top but they have huge windows so you can still enjoy the views.
We then took the Panoramic Gondola down. You cannot book a time for this but the gondola runs every 15 minutes and takes a very large group of people down so even if you have a huge line (like we did), don’t fret. It moves much faster than you expect. We only needed to wait about 30 minutes to get down.
The gondola on the way down will have several stops including Frakmuntegg where you can ride Switzerland’s longest summer toboggan.
The gondola ends at Kriens where we caught the bus back to Lucerne and walked along the Chapel Bridge one last time. We got gelato along the main street on the water. Highly recommend getting a small scoop of the chocolate and a scoop of the tiramisu.
After saying “goodbye” to Lucerne we took the 50 minute train to Zurich. In Zurich we stayed at the Boutique Hotel Wellenberg which was located about 12 minutes from the train station. We felt this hotel was perfectly located and it had air conditioning!
Once we checked in we walked towards Old Town Zurich to explore a bit before dinner. We ate at Louis Brasserie (right next to the hotel) and had the lemon ricotta ravioli and entrecote. We know it seems like we get steak a lot in Europe, but it really is just so much better than in the US! This was not our favorite entrecote so we would think about trying somewhere else. There are so many great looking restaurants around Zurich.
Here are some food ideas for Zurich:
- Le Dezaley – great for traditional Swiss dishes and fondue
- Zeughauskeller- perfect for traditional Swiss food that is not fondue. It looks like a giant beer hall
- La Pasta – not overly expensive
- Confiserie Sprungli
Day 11 – Zurich
We spent the last day of this trip exploring Zurich. We started with breakfast at the hotel, though Emily was a little disappointed by the coffee machine so we ended up stopping for coffee at a coffee shop near the hotel called Henrici.
Emily could not stop raving about this coffee shop! It was one of the best we’ve been to in Europe. The staff is incredibly friendly and attentive, you can sit down and enjoy or grab a coffee to go. The options are almost endless and include everything from matcha lattes to chai lattes to cappuccinos. Emily tried the nitro cold brew and loved it, even though it was fairly expensive (almost $8 for a small cup). High prices should be expected in Switzerland!
It was a gray day and it started to rain at 1pm. We decided to get some wine under the covered area of La Rotisserie which is a very nice 5 star hotel with a Michelin star restaurant and a perfect view of Zurich. They have an area outside that is covered where you can get drinks, so we got some wine and watched the rain fall on the Limmat River. It was perfect for a rainy afternoon.
After enjoying the wine and view we caught the bus over to the Lindt Chocolate Factory. We did not get to do the official tour as it was sold out that day but we still were able to see the giant chocolate fountain, go into their shop to bring home chocolate, and enjoy their cafe stocked with their own chocolate. We got their chocolate cake that was really good and their hot chocolate that we would skip next time as it was somewhat average.
For dinner we wanted to end our last night with fondue. We got an incredible recommendation from our front desk receptionist who said that Raclette Stube was the best in Zurich and was just up the street from our hotel. We got there about 6:30 and it was already pretty busy. We were still able to be seen but you may want to make a reservation just in case. It was absolutely fantastic. The fondue was so good and came with bread and potatoes, and we also got a salad to start and (of course) some wine. The inside is a very traditional Swiss vibe. We are 100% going back here the next time we return to Zurich!
While dinner was delicious, we wanted some protein rather than just cheese and bread, so we stopped at Restaurant 1001 GMBH for the Kofte Durum. It was so insanely good in a really unexpected way. It tasted like a really good cheeseburger in a wrap. Highly recommended for a quick, to go, more affordable bite.
Here are some things not to miss in Zurich:
- Walk along the Limmat River through town
- Explore Altstadt (Old Town)
- See the Niederdorf and Grossmunster
- Pfalzgasse Street – viewpoint with cobblestone streets and a church
- Walk along Lake Zurich
- Bahnofstrasse – modern high end shopping area
- Lindenhof Hill – excellent view over Zurich
- Rapperswil – medieval town of roses, 30 minutes by train on the other side of Lake Zurich
Day 12 – Fly Home
That’s a wrap on our Switzerland itinerary! It was an absolute blast and we can’t recommend Switzerland enough for your next trip. While we felt like we hit all the highlights, there is still so much more to explore and do. We hope you enjoy your trip!
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